AGHDAD,
Iraq, April 16 — Amal al-Khedairy stood amid the ruins of
her elegant waterfront home and cursed the people who had
rained the bombs on her.
This was a full-throated, almost lunatic fury, sharpened
by the Western-educated voice that carried it. For years,
Ms. Khedairy ran Baghdad's most luminous artistic center,
one that flourished in the face of the dictator, a place
dedicated to bringing the worlds of Occident and Orient
together.
Today, in the rubble and shattered windows of Ms.
Khedairy's home and the ransacked remains of her cultural
center, the aspiration seemed all lost.
"This is our American liberation!" spat Ms.
Khedairy, 70, as she waded through the half-burned books of
her second-story library. "I never thought you would do
it. I went to the American School. I believed in your moral
values. And every night you bombed. Every night, I ran
through the streets, an old woman in my nightgown. Look at
my library!"
As this city of 4.5 million people grapples with the
destruction all around it, Ms. Khedairy's rage seems
emblematic of a whole class of people who might be expected
to be more sympathetic to the American cause. Ms. Khedairy
spent a lifetime admiring Western culture, learning its
English, conjugating its French verbs, all the while trying
to sustain her native culture in an Iraq under the iron fist
of Saddam Hussein.
But somewhere, in the cacophony of bombs and the orgy of
looting that followed, Ms. Khedairy and, it seems, others
among Baghdad's cultural elite became angry about the war,
seeing in its destruction a vulgarity that only pushed the
country deeper into degradation. Even today, even in
Baghdad, there are people unused to chaos, and chaos now it
is.
Ms. Khedairy's anger may seem odd in a country where
people were routinely tortured to death by Saddam Hussein.
She is in fact a neophyte to politics in a land where
everything long ago became political, and her anger is by no
means confined to Americans. She is equally angry with Iraqi
looters.
But what seems clear in her confused emotions is that the
war has dragged her from a comfortable way of life under Mr.
Hussein. Of the compromises involved in that, she did not
speak. She had, she said, refused all invitations to join
parties or committees. Art and culture provided her refuge
during the Hussein years. But they were no refuge against
bombs and the chaos that followed, and so her anger spills
over.
"I want you to come and see what they have done to
my institute," she said to an American visitor,
desperate, tugging. "It's all gone: the paintings, the
piano, the carpets, the music. All looted by these animals.
Our liberation!"
Ms. Khedairy's house is in the Suleik neighborhood, one
of the Baghdad's wealthier enclaves, known for the
intellectuals who inhabit it.
In a city of flat, squat buildings spare of trees and
greenery, her home is a luxurious island: two levels,
floor-to-ceiling windows, a garden full of jasmine and
bougainvillea and date palms. The Tigris River meanders past
her backyard.
The house is full of culture, or it was. There are
recordings of Beethoven and Wagner among the antiquated
LP's, and collections of Turkish and Arabian music as well.
A handcrafted wooden grille forms one of the walls of the
sitting room, and the books range from Oriental architecture
to French literature.
But the house's curse, and Ms. Khedairy's, is its
proximity to the headquarters of the Mukhabarat, the Iraqi
secret police, which lies just across the river. Night and
day, for weeks, the bombs fell here, most of them finding
their target, some of them not.
The result is that the entire back end of the house is
splayed open to the world. The windows are shattered, the
rain has come in, and the LP's and books have been blown
apart and scattered.
For weeks, Ms. Khedairy said, she often left her house
when the bombing started, dashing to a friend's house blocks
away, where she felt safer. Every day, she said, she would
return to her garden to water her palms and plants, so
determined was she to preserve something in the ruins.